A Day at the Museum, A Night at the Opera

Some days in Bishkek are especially interesting. Yesterday was one of my favorite. It was Saturday, the day a group of us usually gather for breakfast and conversation at Sierra Coffee. Yesterday was typical of the Koffee Klatch. I arrived a little early to stake out some tables. There were the usual suspects arriving around ten a.m. But the nice thing was there were three new young people who joined us. Victor, who is a student in English at iLAca Academy, and Tommy, a new teacher at the London School, and Asela, a Kyrgyz. Then later the group grew to about 14. There is something really wonderful when that many people come.

An Afternoon at The Fine Arts Museum

After noon, we finally managed to get moving and four of us, John Herring, Wai Shu, and Jesse Smith, went to the State Fine Arts Museum where we saw three exhibits of exceptional value. Two are temporary traveling exhibits, one of photographs of Kyrgyzstan by a Turkish artist, the other an exhibition of contemporary art titled Lingua Franca/tilli.

A permanent exhibit of textiles, jewelry, and clothing was very interesting. Most of the items on display are from the first part of the twentieth century. The loomed rugs and carpets and embroidered costumes were striking, along with the coral and metal jewelry.

The photographic exhibit was of colored images of everyday life in Kyrgyzstan. They were an excellent series of photographs capturing human subjects from many areas of the country. My favorite image was of a young boy in an ak-kalpak hugging his taigan, a sight-hound of the steppes related to Afghan-hounds, but there were also other nice images.

The Lingua Franca/tilli exhibition presents the work of nine artists from Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan who see art as a vehicle for social criticism. Through the language of contemporary art, creative people express their active civil position, protesting against racism and nationalism through the language of modern art. A set of small sculptures that play with the ever present image of Lenin was remarkable. The video installations are very creative, but my favorite was a series of icon-like creations by a Tashkent naivist in cotton and wool mounted on cardboard that portrayed scenes from everyday life. And there is a knock-out eye chart created with images that represent the stereotype ideas of Central Asia. As John noted, if this were in a museum in America, the eye chart would be the poster and we would all have taken one home. Lingua Franca/tili is concerned with problems in politics, history and linguistics. The exhibition runs until 1 November and is worth a visit if you are in Bishkek.

It is also high season for weddings in Bishkek. The Fine Arts Museum is across the street from the Hyatt Hotel, whose fountain is a favorite place for wedding parties to gather and take photos. Jesse and I went outside and watched the spectacle of multiple wedding parties being hustled into photo ops by videographers and photographers. One party had 15 women in matching coral bridesmaid dresses. It was a sight to see.

After everyone exited the museum, we crossed Soviet Street to go to the Opera and Ballet theatre to pick up some tickets for some events. John, Tommy and I needed tickets for the Kyrgyz Opera Ai-Churek for last night and Wai Shu, Jesse and I decided to go to the ballet Sunday evening which is based on Hoffman's Tale of The Vienna Woods with music by Strauss.

We split up at that point. John and I took a look at a new German wine and specialty store, Kritzer, located at Togtogula and Tunustunov. Nice wine selection, but pricey. I had hoped to find a corkscrew, but they don't sell them. I did buy some really nice goat cheese. There is a nice offering of cheeses from Italy, Spain, and France and Olive Oils and vinegars. I will go back.

After that I went home for an apple and goat cheese snack. John came back to pick me up and we went to the opera to meet Tommy.

A Night at the Opera

The opera,  Ai-Churek, is the first opera to be written in Kyrgyz. Created as a part of a move by the then Stalinist Cultural apparatus to create regional arts throughout the republics of the USSR, it was created by three authors usually identified as Vlasov-Fere-Maldybayevm.  Abdylas Maldybaev (1906 – 1978) was a Kyrgyz composer, actor, and operatic tenor singer. Maldybaev was one of the composers of the state anthem of the Kirghiz SSR and is still renowned for his operatic composition. He helped popularize Kyrgyz music by skillfully using Western European techniques. He is pictured on the Kyrgyz one som banknote. Maldybayev provided folk melodies and composed music which was then organized and prepared by Russian composers Vladimir Vlasov and Vladimir Fere into six Soviet state opera and other works. I have seen two of the operas now and have enjoyed the music. Vlasov and Fere used a lot of "borrowed" techniques from other Russian and Western composers. 

But while I enjoyed the music, I could not help from being irritated by the constant level of chatter from the young people seated behind us. A number of teachers bring their high school aged students to the Kyrgyz operas because the subject matter is often historical or mythic events in the Kyrgyz national story. Ai-Churek is based on the Manas Epic, for example. Unfortunately, the students are not prepared well in the etiquette appropriate to live performance at opera and ballet. And their teachers do not sit close enough to them to exercise appropriate control.

But it is not just young people who need some training. Last week the middle-aged woman next to me kept receiving telephone calls and talking on her phone during the performance. And the sounds of call and message tones seem to echo one another at every performance. We have a long way to go to get people to save their witty comments until the intermissions and to silence their mobile phones during performances.

I've decided to begin in my own small way to address the problem by discussing it with my students as a conversation topic. Maybe I can even develop a lesson plan and vocabulary lesson for use in English classes in Kyrgyzstan.

Winter Taster in Bishkek

We had an early snow last night in Bishkek. We had been enjoying warm days and cool nights for the last few weeks. But about 5 p.m. a slow and steady rain turned into a flurry of snowflakes that dusted the parked cars and sidewalks. I was teaching English classes in a fifth floor classroom where the teacher's position looks out the windows and watched the flakes fall while trying to teach. But I used the weather to teach about the differences in the vocabulary used in the USA and in British English to speak about the weather.

By the time I left the building after 8 p.m., the snow had stopped and it had disappeared from the streets. The temperature dropped below freezing last night. It is an early taste of Winter for us. A little teaser.

So, this morning I donned the curly-toed Silk Road wool slippers for the first time this year. The sun is shining but it is still chilly outside. The current temperature is about 41 degrees F, that's 5 degrees Celsius.  I made need to use the slippers for a few more days as a warming trend is forecast for the coming week.

My friend Aftandil Zhorobekov captured the snow moment in this photo that he posted on Facebook:

Bishkek Journal—Cal Preece 7-3-12

July 3, 2012

Yesterday was my 70^th Birthday. The movement through the decades seems swifter on this side of the 5^th one than it did during the first four of my life. It is interesting to be in a foreign country, far from some friends of 40 or more years standing, and from younger people whose lives have touched mine in the past 15 to 20 years. They are who I would normally try to gather for a celebration of food, drink,  and music to mark such an occasion. But this is actually the 5^th year I have marked my birthday in Kyrgyzstan.

In 2008, my young Kyrgyz friend Emil and I climbed aboard a British Airlines jumbo in Houston on my birthday and flew to London. After nine and a quarter hours we were in London, on the third of July. Four hours later we boarded a British Midlands International (BMI) flight to Bishkek. And we landed here on the early morning of the Fourth of July. I watched the sun come up and had some breakfast with Emil's family and then went down for a nap. A little later our adventure began. I was always a little off balance. I learned how to say yes and no in Kyrgyz. I learned how to say “Min atim Calvin. Sin atim?” to learn an other's name. I learned to say “Raxmat,” to thank people. To say “Salam Aliekum” or “Salamatsysby,” as hello. And then discovered that I needed Russian to do business in Bishkek.

A Bishkek Mini-Bazaar below street level

But we soon were traveling to the countryside and I began to fall in love with the place, the people, and the culture of hospitality that marks this remarkable country. Every direction that your eyes turn the mountains are there encircling the places where people have carved out villages and cities. Five million people call it home, about one million live in the capital city of Bishkek, where I am located. At any given time about one million are also out of the country working as migrant laborers in Russia, Kazakhstan, or places like America.

I came here to stay when we created Fund Orozbay after a long visit in the summer of 2009. It took almost a year. There was a revolution that deposed the then president Bakiev in April of 2010, then in June there was an inter-ethnic problem that caused lots of problems in the South of the country around Osh and Jalalabad. I finally was able to come to start work with the fund in September. By October we managed to sign all the documents and get registered as a public charity fund.

Dried apricots at Osh Bazaar

Since then we have been learning more about the place, teaching a little English to earn funds for the charity, traveling around, writing some feature stories for local publications, and supporting efforts to improve education, efforts to solve the challenges of being a burgeoning democracy through voluntary action, and providing some direct aid to those who are homeless, or who are elderly and poor.

We now are moving forward on a project that we envisioned originally in 2009. It is a pilot that will provide funds to the villages in the area of Kulatov in the Nu-kaat region of the province of Osh to improve educational performance by students and teachers. As usual we are starting small, providing $100 per month during the school year for the project to award prizes to deserving students and teachers. Decisions about how the funds will be distributed will be handled by our representative in the area who was a teacher and supervisor of schools for 45 years.

Near Kulatov

We are actively raising funds at Help Fund Orozbay in Kyrgyzstan where you can make a donation on-line safely through PayPal. I need your help to do the work we have to do here. The country will celebrate its 21^st Independence Day this August. We are hoping to raise $1000 dollars before then to help implement our projects.

Please consider and then make a donation of $10, $25, $50 or whatever you can afford to help us reach our goal.

In addition to the Kulatov project we have these other activities underway:

• A project that will translate Kyrgyz Folk Tales into English for use in English classes. We will provide teachers with downloadable pdf documents that they can use in their classrooms. The Folk Tale project helps to preserve Kyrgyz Folk Tales and to help communicate the values of the culture. Using indigineous materials in translation will be a continuing project.

• Continuing support for the American Studies Association of Kyrgyzstan's Annual Symposium. We have provided scholarship funding to pay for students and teachers who can not afford the registration fee and we are providing some consulting services about the use of social media to advance the groups agenda of improving the quality of teaching about American Studies and the teaching of English in the country.

• We are continuing our support of and consultation with individuals and groups on voluntary action as a solution to the challenges facing this small country. The government cannot do everything to address the issues of homelessness, orphans and widows. People in Kyrgyzstan are beginning to understand the need for creating voluntary action groups, not just to protest, but to offer solutions to these challenges. Fund Orozbay offers small grants to such groups and consulting services on local fundraising and the use of marketing and social networks to raise awareness.

• We are also working on English as a Foreign Language resources that will provide English teachers throughout the country with free lessons and lesson plans in English, Russian, and Kyrgyz for use with their students. The first of these lessons will be available in August from our website. We will use various means of communications to let teachers know about their availability.

I am teaching three times a week for an NGO that offers EFL classes where I get to test the new learning, teaching materials. I began my first class there on my 70^th birthday as a way to improve my productivity in this new decade.

I sincerely hope you will join with me in this endeavor. Click this link and donate the cost of lunch for two, that small amount can do a wonder of good here.

Help Fund Orozbay in Kyrgyzstan

Bishkek Journal-Life in Kyrgyzstan Cal Preece

Catching up on Spring Activities

I have been a bit hampered in my blogging schedule by the unfortunate demise of my 2008 MacBook Air a few weeks ago. My trusty companion had seen me through three trips to Kyrgyzstan and back to the US, accompanied me to Film Festivals in Los Angeles, New York, and Venice. Survived a fall early in its career in the security line at LAX as I tried to put it back in its case and numerous trips around Kyrgyzstan in snow, rain, and heat. I will miss its convenience and lightweight portability. I have been an Apple computer user since 1983 when I first used an Apple IIc and then in my work life at Rice University in Houston, I was appled up for the last 16 years of my time there. I am not sure I would be able at my age to switch back to Windows Operating Systems. But that issue has now been solved. My Kyrgyz friend lugged a MacBook Pro through IAH (Houston Intercontinental), IAD (Dulles in Washington), LHR (London Heathrow) and FRU (Bishkek Frunze) over a 72 hour trip, to give me top computing power again. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

It's been quite some time since I wrote, so I will just try to hit the highlights and will abandon the day by day approach I had been using. There have been some great experiences over the last couple of months and some new developments in older stories.

Spring is here, warm days, cool nights

First, Spring has come in Bishkek and we are enjoying warm days and cool nights these days. Indeed, sometimes the days seem hot to us for Spring. Indeed, by the end of this week the metrologist are predicting a high in the low 90's F, or about 34 degrees Celsius. We have had more thunderstorms than I can remember from the other years I have been here this season. The heat of the day seems to cause a buildup that gets trapped by the Ala-Too mountains to the south and then it comes back in the late afternoon and evening as rain, wind, thunder and lightening.

But that has been good for the flowers and the trees, of course. The roses have bloomed now, we have seen the fruit trees blossom, irises and daffodils were showy for awhile, and the migratory birds have returned from their winter visits to India, Pakistan, Turkey, and Africa, to sing their songs and find new mates. 

Bolgu Bolgu is a Hafazi Nightengale

The nightengale likes to wake me at 5:05 each day singing a strong song. And later in the morning around six another returning visitor adds his call to the wakeup routine.

The common Eurasian Cukoo

With the disappearance of the winter weather the kindergarten children are back again playing outside my windows as I write today. A burbling stream of constant excitement travels up from their school playground to keep in alert to what is going on outside. I have to schedule my naps when they take theirs.

I have been able to go to a number of cultural events recently. I attended a ballet performance at the Kyrgyz State Theater for Opera and Ballet that featured principal dancers from Moscow in “Giselle”. The house was packed and the dancing was good, especially from the Russian artists. And the local corps de ballet was enchanting as always. I also have been attending some interesting concerts.

A special night at the Philharmonic Hall at Manas and Chuy on May 10^th featuring 35 years of Woman Power was great. Outstanding female singers and girl groups, sextets, triple trios, and others performed wonderful pop music in Kyrgyz to a full house. My favorite singer, Dunara Akulova, performed and it was really good to hear her sing again. The concert, in a most un-Kyrgyz fashion, started exactly on time at 6:30 pm and went non-stop until its finale with all performers on stage at 9:30 pm. We probably could have used an intermission, but it was great. Afterwards my friend Marat Zhaparkulov and a friend of his who works for the state television channel set off to find shashlik (shishkabab) dinner. After not being able to e served at Restaurant Jalalabad, we found a no table cloth restaurant on Gorky street near the Vefa Center and had a combo plate of chicken and mutton shashlik and a tomato and cucumber salad. It was very good.

I also attended an outdoor rock concert at the Russia Kinotheatre on Chuy to see my friend Farrell Styers' band Plov 4 2 perform. It was a strange concert. It was a fundraising occasion for good cause. I went with some friends, but delays in the start of the program (more typical than the Woman Power concert) meant that it would be about an hour late in beginning. My friends decided to go get a drink elsewhere. I thought getting a seat somewhere might be a better idea for me, so I waded into the crowded seating area, found two girls alone at a table for four and asked if I could sit. So I had a nice place to wait for the concert. It finally began with some sort of choreographed martial arts group wearing fatigues, carrying mock weapons, and real knives began to attach one another. Lots of judo, karate, and sambo moves set to heavy rock music. It was well received by the crowd, especially the younger ones (under 12's). I thought it was boring and that it went on for way too long. Nearly 20 minutes or more of it. But finally, the bands began to play and the break dancers provided some time for stage shifting. Best band of the the night, the Rolls Rock Band, who are a Beatles tribute group, but who also do 80's rock covers. Plov 4 2 brought its slamming sound onto the stage at around 10 pm. Concert was over at 10:30 to 10:45. I never saw my friends again. They said they came back but got bored and left. I had room at the table for them since the girls had left. I did meet a new friend though. Victoria. A beautiful auburn haired woman who brought me an ice cream as part of her introduction. She was with Ruslan who was a great dancer and we talked. I left and encountered a camel on the streets of Bishkek who I think had been entertaining kids at the nearby amusement park. He was on his way back to his yard with his trainer-keeper. He gives rides and photo ops at the park. Fun night with surprising conclusion.

That was on Wednesday night, May 9th. I had taught some private lessons that day and by the time I got home, I was really tired. Thursday was a very slow day and I woke up late. I mostly stayed home and read and wrote some things. I prepared some lesson materials for my EFL students for my Friday classes. Friday, I taught the two groups of students at 11 am and at 2:30 pm. And ended the day quietly at home.

Saturday morning I was able to go to the Fatboy's Breakfast group and say final goodbye to my friend Songbae Lee, who is leaving Bishkek after 2 years to return to the USA. He was one of the prime movers in creating the Fatboy's fun and I will miss him greatly. He had a nice going away party earlier in the week at a restaurant with a great 4^th floor patio at Vefa Center for his co-workers and his friends. One of the recurring issues for me in Bishkek is that those who come to work for NGO's and Universities are usually only here for a year or two. I am always sad to see them go.

Songbae Lee with Photographer Andrew Chin

Sunday, May 13^th, Mother's Day for the USA. Not really observed in Kyrgyzstan. I sent email greetings to all the mothers I know and gave flowers to women I know here. They were surprised but thrilled when I explained that it was a day in the US reserved for treating your mother nicely.

Monday, May 14, I was recruited to help raise awareness of a new language center in Bishkek. There are a growing number of facilities teaching English as a Foreign Language. I met the owner of the British Language School at an InterNations meeting in April. Monday we went to two schools to sell her programs to the students. I hope it worked. I had a great time meeting all the students and promoting English learning for the summer to them. I may teach conversational English part-time for her center.

Tuesday, May 15, I was interviewed by a professor at Manas University's Radio Manas for her program called Kyrgyzstan Through the Eyes of our Visitors. I visited the new campus of Manas University that is being created in Jal, a Western suburb of Bishkek. They have a very large piece of land and are creating a beautiful, modern new campus there. The school of communications is located there, along with their radio station. They are available on the internet at http://radio.manas.kg/

The audio file of my interview with Professor Saltanat Mambaeva is available here.

file upload

It is about 20 minutes long. And is an mp3 file.

A U.S. Air Force Rock-Country Band, NightWing, came to town and gave a free concert as a part of Night at the Museum in the State Historical Museum on Ala-Too Square on Wednesday. As time for the concert arrived we had a little sprinkle and ominous clouds, but the rain did not last long and there was a full rainbow to the East just before the group performed. Great music from a great band. I ran into Victoria again and her friends from the Rock Concert at Russia KinoTheatre. We talked and listened to the music. She is a really interesting young woman. She is a metrologist at Manas Airport and has impeccable English skills. It was a great concert. I am really glad my friend Seth Fearey send me a reminder email about it. Lots of fun.

Victoria at NightWing Concert 

On Thursday, I used the day to work on new lessons for my students and read some more of my current Kindle Book, “Catching Fire, How Cooking Made us Human” by Richard Wrangham.

And Friday, it was the beginning of the American Studies Association of Kyrgyzstan's 9^th Annual Symposium where I moderated panels through two days of events. More about that in a subsequent blog.

And here are some flora images and a rainbow from Spring in Bishkek.

And a few images of the flora of Bishkek for you.

American Studies Association Kyrgyzstan 9th Annual Symposium

The 9th Annual American Studies Symposium in Central Asia 20th Anniversary of Kyrgyz-American Diplomatic Relations: Evolution and Current State of American Studies May 18-20, 2012 Diplomatic academy, Bishkek The American Studies Symposium gathers hundreds of experts working in the field of American Studies in Central Asian higher educational institutions. American studies are the interdisciplinary field: it covers issues of politics, culture, economics, language, and ethnicity studies. As evidenced by the steadily growing number of American Studies programs and organizations, alongside the growing number of local scholars and students in the field, there seems to be an increasing interest in American Studies. The American Studies Association of Kyrgyzstan in collaboration with Diplomatic Academy of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs invites those concerned with American Studies, such as teachers, researchers and students associated with American Studies programs in universities, colleges and secondary schools; museum directors and librarians interested in all segments of American life; public officials and administrators concerned with the broadest aspects of education and those interested in the field to enhance such dialogue and discourse through its annual symposium. The Symposium also serves as a platform for experts to share their experiences in curriculum and syllabus development, critical thinking, teaching methodologies as related to American Studies as well as to discuss genesis, current development and prospects of American Studies as a new academic discipline in Central Asia. The goal of this year’s Symposium is: 1) to enhance educational, cultural and diplomatic relations between Kyrgyzstan and U.S 2) to analyze challenges and perspectives of teaching American Studies in Central Asia; 3) to exchange ideas and cultural experiences pertaining to the said program or discipline 4) to discuss effective strategies and new methods of teaching in the field of American Studies. Registration Fee is 200 KGS.

Bishkek Journal-Cal Preece Weekending 29 March 2012

Friday, March 23, 2012 Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan I began the day today writing, polishing off the journal entries for the previous week. Then in the early afternoon I ventured out to see if I could find a roll of aluminum foil, pick up some cookies from the bakery, and do some weekly shopping. I caught a marshutka (mini-bus) thinking that it would take me straight down Pravda to Kiev where there is a large Narodny market, but the vehicle turned on Moscova, one block from where I boarded, and I thought, “Whoops, marshutka roulette is taking me elsewhere." The mini-bus then turned for one block down Sovietska to Toktogula, where it turned left and headed towards the west.

So I rode to Isanov, got off and walked to the Beta Store on Chuy, where I found they did not have any foil. I picked up some green and black olives and walked back home. I did learn where the 196 Route Marshutka goes, so I considered it a win. I also know now that if I want to ride to Moscova and Shopokov, where the bakery and upscale market are, I just need to catch it. Now if I could figure out who comes back this way it would be excellent. Only for when the weather is inclement, mind you. Since we have begun the "Walk As Far As You Can" approach to everyday fitness now that the weather has moderated.

The children have returned to the school playground outside my windows. The sound of their laughter and excitement keep urging me to get out of the apartment and go play.

Saturday, March 24, 2012 Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Nice crowd this morning for the breakfast-brunch group at FatBoys. I had blinis and jam with coffee. Met some new people. Had interesting conversations.

March 24th is the anniversary of what is called The Tulip Revolution in the Kyrgyz Republic. The country’s first president Askar Akayev was ousted in 2005 over corruption, authoritarianism and nepotism. The non-violent revolution was initially hailed by many as a promising triumph of democracy in Central Asia. It brought to power Kurmanbek Bakiyev who later was ousted in a more violent action in April 2010. Since then there has been a new constitutional reform, a new parliament elected and a new president selected without incident.

So, back home after a walk from mid-town. Including a stop at Moscova market for some vegies and the bakery. Disappointed not to find my celery vendor or any nice spinach. But the cookies were available. Did find some nice cheery tomatoes, too.

Making a salad, I managed to take off about a third of my nail on my left middle finger. As I was trying to get the blood flow stopped, I got a call from young Timur telling me he was coming so that we could go to a birthday celebration for his Aunt, my friend's mother. I managed to get bandaged up with the help of Marat, who had stopped by. But the bandaging was primitive, at best. I need to find some better adhesive tape. I have some bandaids, but they are not very good, and there are gauze bandages, but again not great. I needed some tape to wrap the gauze in. Finally, I resorted to some cellotape around the gauze and it held.

Went to the house for the birthday celebration, but managed to forget to take my camera. Had a nice time.

After that I went to a new Jazz Club presentation at Cafe Fortuna. The place is becoming a great music venue and Saturday nights are becoming Jazz Night. The music was terrific. I can't wait to go again. Y friends Lars Wettestad and Vebeca Oesterich, and Julia from AUCA joined me. Home about 10 pm. I was in bed fairly early. It was an event filled day.

Sunday, March 25, 2012 Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan This morning I noticed that the beeches are putting out new leaves. The sky this morning was gray and overcast. It made for a good day to read and write.

In the afternoon I got out of the apartment to go to the pharmacy located on Toktugula and Togoluk Moldo. I took the 196 marshutka. Found some paper surgical tape and a slightly better bandaid. So at least I will be able to bandage my finger a little better. I think I should look into becoming the importer of Johnson & Johnson bandaging products. Someone is already bringing in baby products. Maybe I could just piggyback with them.

I took a photo walk and posted the pictures to an album on Flickr. A Walk in Bishkek

Monday, March 26, 2012 Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Facebook for some reason has stopped showing the photo postings and link images of my friends postings. I realize when things like this happen how much I enjoy seeing what my friends are up to and what they share on social media.

Still looking for aluminum foil, I headed out again toward the big Narodny on Kiev and Pravda. Imagine my disappointment again when I did not find any in the store. Plenty of stretch plastic wrap, and parchment paper, though. Did find the foot file I have been searching for and there was a bargain on Pringle's, marked down from 140 soms to 114 soms. How could I resist?

I decided to walk back by going out the back way to Gogol Street. Outside the grocery store is a line of fast food kiosks. The Bigemot Hamburger, A KFC (Kyrgyz Flavored Chicken), a Donner-Schwarma shop (Gyro),and a Kielbasa shop.

I managed to slip past them without succumbing to the temptation to have a little of each. They do booming business from about 11:30 am to about 2:30 pm for lunch everyday. I would like to checkout the Kyrgyz Flavored Chicken soon, though.

Gogol south took me by the Karven Sports Club, where I checked in to see what it will cost monthly for me to swim and use the equipment in the gym. It is a little pricey, but the pool looked great. The weight room is a little small. I may try to find another workout space and only signup to swim three times a week.

Continuing the walk south on Gogol, I passed the Kyrgyz Islamic Cultural Center, and the Central Mosque of Bishkek. It is located at the intersection of Moscova and Gogol. I can hear the call to prayer from the mosque five times a day at my apartment. There are also a number of shops selling women's wear from Turkey and Saudi along the way.

I turned on Moscova, ran into my friend Ulan Isakov, a journalist, and we walked back together to the area where we live.

It was a nice afternoon's walk in Bishkek.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012 Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Learned from the news today that some one or some group has rustled 60 new trees that were being planted in one of my favorite parks in Bishkek. Park Ata-Turk seems to be under constant attack by what my friend Aftandil calls “vandals”. Working with him and other volunteers we created a group last spring in March to fight off some even more dangerous threats to a wild, unkempt, natural area called the Western Addition of Park Ata-Turk.

At that time people were destroying trees by burning and then cutting them down to make way for the construction of illegal high-end housing. Using voluntary action the illegal activity was stopped, we planted some new trees, and held a series of cleanups or subbotniks. A conservation action is planned for the 7th of April in the park. I plan to attend to participate, to document what is happening now and to check on the Western Addition.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012 Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan I woke up at 3 a.m. And could not return to sleep. I was finally able to get back to sleep around 5:30 a.m. And then got up for some coffee and internet around 9 a.m. The noise from the early childhood education center playground woke me. There is something incredibly reassuring about the laughter, yelling, and, yes, the blood-curdling screams of 3 to 5 year-olds. The sounds provide a clarion call that life goes on and that the young maintain an enthusiasm for play and a sense of wonder, no matter where we are in the world.

That sound got me moving. I took a long walk in Dubovyi Sculpture Park which is locate in the central area of the city. I took a number of photos of the sculptures in the western end of the park today. I really enjoy my visits to this park. Eventually, I will have a photo of every sculptural piece. Dubovy Park in Bishkek - Дубовый Сад в Бишкеке ('Oak Park'), previously called Dzerjinsky Square (Dzerjinsky was head of the Soviet Secret Police). The park began as an oak grove planted by Aleksei Fetisov, a former mayor, in 1890. The sculptures came after an international sculpture contest in the 1990's.

I met for lunch at a cafe in the park with Eliza Taitialeva, who is one of the organizers of the American Studies Association of Kyrgyzstan. They are planning their 9th Symposium for May 18 and 19th. My foundation provided some support for the activity last year to help pay registration fees for those who could not afford it. The sessions I attended last year helped me to meet and talk to a large number of teachers, professors, and students. This year we have doubled our contribution to provide more registration support and have committed some additional funds in support of covering publication costs. We also will help with some consulting and local fundraising efforts.

Thursday, March 29, 2012 Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Today was one of those lost days. I woke around 7 a.m. Had coffee. Spent a little time on the internet. Took care of some emails. Then found my body and brain were crying out for more sleep. I went back to bed around 11 a.m and slept until about 3 p.m. Up for some lunch, but not even the promise of Spooks, a British spy drama aka in the USA as MI5, could keep me up. One of the best things about being semi-retired is that you can just listen to your body and rest when you feel like. Though I have to admit that it has taken me years to adjust to having an occasional slug day.

Bishkek Journal-Cal Preece Weekending 3-22-12

Friday, March 16, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Another above 50 degrees F day in Bishkek. At 10:30 am I realized that I had not managed to get away from my computer. I began about 7:30 am. I made some breakfast, an egg, rye toast, a little salami. I took a walk, even though it is a bit damp outside. But there has been no snow, and therefore no new ice for a few days. I took a long walk today down to the TZUM, back by the Komfort Store. Stopped for some coffee at Coffee on Toktogula and Shopokov. Picked up a copy of the Times of Central Asia. Looked through the Moskova Mini-Bazaar, picked up some peppers and spinach. Then back to the apartment to do some reading and writing. Rain began just after I arrived and lasted all night.

Saturday, March 17, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan An amazing effect of raindrops hanging on the tree limbs outside the kitchen window this morning as bright sun streams over Bishkek.

It's been raining since late yesterday evening. I managed a long walk yesterday and got home just before the rains began to fall. Looking forward to breakfast at FatBoys with the English speakers at 10 am. Always fun to find out who comes. Right now, time for more coffee. There is some possibility of clearing skies in the East as I can see a break in the overcast.

A surprisingly beautiful day in Bishkek. Got the laundry done and hung outside to dry before breakfast. A great breakfast group this morning including a couple of people who are here doing a feasibility study for the production of a tele-novella in Kyrgyz. Fascinating discussions. Then a walk back to the apartment with a stop by the cookie store to pickup the oatmeal-raisin and chocolate biscotti from Papa's Bakery. Then a little nap. Now watching BBC news after a bowl of the 2 bean chili. I have a great life.

Sunday, March 18, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan What was predicted as rain has now turned to snow outside my window. Current temperature is 0 degrees C and it appears we will have two more days of snow before the 21st, when we will celebrate the arrival of Spring. The snow was truly significant. It began as small little flakes but later the flakes were the size of the 3 som coin. Headed out in damp conditions to the ballet. The snow had turned to rain when I entered the Opera House.

Had a great time at the ballet tonight. Principal dancers were terrific dancing in Giselle. Exited to snow falling in a serious way. Nice Indian meal with Lars Wettestad and Vibeke Oestreich Nielsen at Host Restaurant just across the street from the Hyatt. As I came home it was beginning to snow around my apartment again.

Monday, March 19, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan New Out the Kitchen Window photo shows the effects of last nights snow.

Waiting this morning for the FastNet technician to get the new wireless router working so I can more effectively use my Kindle and iPad, and be able to untether the computer.

Marat and I went in the afternoon to find some new shoes for him as an early birthday present. We went first to Vefa Center, but the prices there were more than he could be comfortable with. I suggested that we head out to Ortosay Bazaar, where the quality of goods is pretty good and prices are usually fair. But as we were heading out, I thought it would be good to pickup some cash from the KazKommerz ATM in the Beta Store. That's when I learned that the store was closed. A big banner on the front door said try Store 1 or 2, which are not quite as convenient to me. I am always disappointed when a favorite shopping spot shuts its doors. There is a sinking feeling as I realize I am going to have to make adjustments to my routines. It reminds me, too, that there are parts of me are not as flexible as I try to appear.

We headed to Ortosay Bazaar, located in the Southeast area. Found a parking space easily. Located the area where men's shoes were being sold and finally found some casual shoes he liked. Left with our purchase and I headed back home. Marat went off to work.

I spent much of the rest of the day editing the stuff in my computer. Deleting old photos, duplicates, fuzzy ones and dropping music I never listen to from iTunes. Today, some of those photo edits are showing up as new posts in Facebook thanks to the auto functions in iPhoto. Amazing. The tech never came.

Dinner was Lemon-Ginger-Cognac Chicken.

I had some chicken thigh pieces in the freezer and defrosted them during the day. A little seasoned flour, salt, black pepper, paprika, in a bag. Chicken shaken to coat. Onions, minced garlic, sliced carrots sauteed in olive oil lightly, chicken added to brown, then water to cover. Added lemon juice, ginger and cognac to flavor the dish, turned down heat to simmer, covered and cooked for about 30 minutes until a thickened sauce appeared and the chicken was tender. I thought it was great.

Tuesday, March 20, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan It is the actual Spring Equinox today and the focus is preparing for the big celebrations tomorrow.One of the national dishes of Kyrgyzstan is served as a ritual meal for Nooruz celebrations. Beshbarmak (бешбармак)

It means “5 fingers”. Indeed in Kyrgyz "беш" means "5" and "бармак", "fingers". It is called that because this plate is traditionally eaten with the hand, only the fingers touching the food.The meat (often sheep) is boiled for hours. When cooked, it will be removed and diced while the noodles are cooking in the broth. Before being served, noodles and the meat are mixed. Beshbarmak often, if not always, comes with a ritual, and «Omen» is said after people are done eating.

"Celebrating Spring"

I went to the Nooruz celebration and food fair at International Ataturk-Alatoo University which is located in Tunguch, on the far eastern edges of Bishkek. I was invited by my young friend Aimeerim Omorova who is studying International Relations. I also called and met my friend Akylbek Ashyrbaev. I met both of them in 2009 as they were preparing to graduate from their secondary schools. Aimeerim is from Osh. During my stay there she helped me by translating during visits to various sites. I met Akylbek at a celebration of the 1st anniversary of a friends wedding. The celebration was held in Aidarken, a village in the south of Kyrgyzstan at the home of his mother and father. It is good to be able to see both of them doing well in university.

The celebration included tables from each of the cultures represented at the university ranging from Kyrgyz, Russian, Turkish, Uzbek, Tajik, Turkmen, and Georgia. The food was great.

I sampled somuluk from Kyrgyz table, a Turkish treat that included a potato salad, a sesame seed red pepper triangle, and a macaroni salad, then to the Uzbek table for a lemon-apple torte that was incredible. I need to find that recipe. During the grazing and contributing to the fund my friend Aimeerim supports, there was also great dancing from the various groups. The kids with backgrounds from the Caucuses were the most amazing dancers.

I put together a little video of the dancing on YouTube.

I rode home on a #7 bus that brought me back to the center of the city. Cost 6 soms. Then walked home up Pravda a few blocks. By the time I got home it was about 6 p.m. And I was really tired. A little television and a visit from Marat to practice his English. He was hungry so he ate the leftover Lemon-Ginger Chicken, then headed off to meet some friends. I was off to bed.

Wednesday, March 21, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan This morning headed out to the celebration of the coming of Spring in Bishkek's Ala-Too Square. The weather was perfect, maybe even too much sunshine. Happy Spring everyone. This celebration of Nooruz is like another New Year. There was a big celebration with dancers, musical performers, the president will speak in the main square. The problem one encounters if you want to take photos is that a phalanx of Militia, Military, and Bishkek police create a security boundary that uses the very broad area of Chuy Prospect between Ala-Too Square and the State Historical museum. It is a distance of about 100 meters, and the crowding issue also has to be dealt with. One begins to see why agora phobia can develop when people are pressing against you en masse.

I took pictures on the fringes and focused on the crowds rather than performers. After about an hour when the big show had not yet begun, I decided to grab breakfast at Vis-a-Vis Cafe. While there, Vibekke and Lars called and came. Then we ventured out to see if we could get closer. We did manage to get on the Museum side of the street.

We walked around, went behind the museum to the area in front of The American University of Central Asia where some traditional Kyrgyz sports activities were taking place. There was arm wrestling, wrestling, free weight lifting, and a game played with sheep ones and knuckles where you try to knock the small bones out of the circle with the big bone.

Then we walked over toward Panifilov Park where food sellers were preparing classic Central Asian dishes and some clever snacks. Lars and Vibekke opted for the sausage in pastry. Then into the park to see the rides in operation. After that we went for some coffee at the Coffee location on Togoluk Moldo. While there I got a call from the technician from FastNet who was ready to come to connect the new wireless router I bought recently. I agreed to be home by 3 p.m. Finished the cappuccino with chocolate. Caught a taxi and arrived home at 5 of three. The tech came at 3:30 and it took him about 15 minutes to get the system working. Now the iPod and the Kindle work seamlessly when connected. Life's little technological blessings make me so happy.

Really tired today after a great day celebrating the vernal equinox under the banner of Nooruz.
Thursday, March 22, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan A nice walk today in my shirtsleeves and a fleece vest. The weather is absolutely beautiful. I stopped by to pay my rent for February to my landlord. I was actually a little late with it. I normally try to do it around the middle of the month. But it was okay. Then I walked North down Sovietska to see what the street vendors were selling.

Then East on Moskova to the Moskova Bazaar where I gan often find nicer fresh vegetable. Found some beautiful cherry tomatoes, spring onions, saw a great orange squash, and bought some leeks so I can make a potato-leek soup this weekend. Was disappointed that there was no celery or spinach. But was told I should find some on Saturday. Across the street is the Halal Meat Market where I picked up a salami. Then walked a block east to Pravda and then south to my apartment with a stop at the Chicken Rotisserie to get some food for dinner. Lunch was the tomatoes, spring onions, salami and some black olives. The olive supply has become seriously depleted. There are no olive bars in the supermarkets and finding quality olives has now gotten harder with the closing of the Vefa Center branch of the Beta Store.