I flew direct from Houston to Istanbul, leaving Houston in the evening at about 8:30 p.m aboard Turkish Airlines. Landing in Istanbul at 4 p.m. and after waiting in the transfer area for my flight to Bishkek at 12:40 a.m., managed to make a decent time of it in the transit area. A food court provided a number of recognizable options including Burger King, a Fried Chicken outlet, Italian fast food, a Turkish Kebab House, and Nero Coffee. I settled on Italian and a fried wrap sandwich that was indeed vaguely Italian. The Americano at Nero Coffee is very good and the outlet in the food court has some comfortable places to sit and sip. My 8 hour layover went quickly as I read in my Kindle Fire and did my usual people watching. Istanbul has become a gateway hub for air travelers heading on to India, Lebanon, Egypt and other parts of Africa, the Mid-East, and Asia.
My flight to Bishkek boarded on time. I was lucky enough to be in a row with only one other person who was traveling from Moldova. We talked a little. I read a little more, but mostly I slept the flight away. We arrived in Bishkek at 10 a.m. at Manas International Airport. The process through passport control was easy and all three of my bags arrived with me. I struggled to lift the three 22 kg bags onto a cart, but got it. Then went to go through customs control but an official there waved me through without looking or scanning my bags. One of the bags was destined for my friends mother and one of her employees whom I knew was waiting to pick it up. My young friend Azkarbek had come with his friend Atai to pick me up and bring me to my apartment. I was thrilled to see him and to have a nice ride to the apartment. It was also nice to have the two boys help me with the luggage up the stairs. Azkar also has keys to the apartment and I did not have to fish around to find mine, which my friend Emil had packed in one of the suitcases without realizing it. But we did not need keys because Kanykei, the woman who cleans was waiting for me and trying to straighten up the place. She opened the door when she heard us rattling outside. It was really nice of her to be there to welcome me home.
Four months gone is a long time in Bishkek and much has happened. The apartment was repainted and seems nicer somehow. It also is a very cozy personal space for me. A couple of unexplained mysteries popped up as I begin to take stock of things. I had left two walking canes or sticks as I call them in the hall cabinet. They are missing. I had about four stainless steel dinner knives in the silverware jar. They are missing. At first I could not figure out what had happened to all the spices and dried herbs, but eventually managed to locate them. Someone put the chili powder into the refrigerator along with the honey. I have found the powdered garlic, the basil, and bought new peppercorns and dried parsley, known as petrushka here, and am able to cook.
Indeed, just a moment ago I pulled a lovely hunk of roasted beast out of the oven. It will provide a number of small meals for me over the next few days.
The weather has been very nice since I returned with sunny skies and highs in the upper 40's F. I arrived here on the 26th of February. I did suffer a significant amount of jet-lag and for almost a week was still partially on Houston time. That seems to have subsided and I am now sleeping and waking with the rest of Bishkek. Today, the weather has changed to dreary. It is raining and the weather forecasters say that the precipitation will turn to snow tonight and a 4 to 6 inch accumulation is expected. It will be good to see the snow. It helps to cover up what is not very beautiful at this time of year in Bishkek. The flowers have not begun to bloom, the icepack on the sidewalks is melting and little rivers of muddy water are dirtying the cuffs of pants, shoes, and boots.
Several changes while I was away. An institution in Bishkek which for years was a stopping point for expats and travelers has closed. Fatboys on Chuy Prospect is up for rent. I am sorry to see it go, it was a touch point when I first came. The coffee was okay, the food was acceptable, but mostly it was meeting people from many parts who came to Bishkek. The Lonely Planet Guide to Central Asia described Fatboys as "a prime foreigners’ hang-out – especially at breakfast, where you’ll find fresh juices, fruit teas, hash browns, bacon, eggs, yoghurt, muesli and pancakes. It’s got a central location and in summer the sidewalk tables make for great alfresco dining." Perhaps someone will resurrect the space soon and the al fresco dining will return.
The biggest changes seem to be happening in the construction industry and in the automotive realm.
Four months ago there was a report that there were about 600 thousand cars registered in Bishkek. That is a lot of cars on the streets of what is not a very large city. There was a lot of traffic and some places were predictable traffic jams and gridlocks. But since my return, I think the number of cars has increased significantly. What used to be a 10 minute taxi trip across town now takes about 20 to 30 minutes because of the increased traffic. I asked one local if it was just my imagination. His reply was very interesting. He said many people rushed to buy automobiles when there was talk of Kyrgyzstan joining a Russian sponsored Customs Union because prices would go up.
The other noticeable growth industry is construction. Throughout the city new high-rise buildings for offices, shops, and luxury apartments are under construction. Much of the older buildings from the Soviet period are being torn down to make way for these new buildings. That construction process also is creating delays along major thoroughfares and the big trucks carrying concrete and cranes are not helping the pothole problem.
My biggest adjustment has come at the apartment because of the new security electronic door. It uses a special little device to open the door and, of course, I don't have one. I would just wait outside sitting on the benches I put in 3 years ago until someone came out or went in to get to the apartment. The installers came the other day and put in the intercom instrument for me to be able to admit guests, but they did not have one of the key devices for me. Finally, I got help from a friend to find out where I had to go to get a device. I went yesterday. And they are supposed to deliver it to me today. I am waiting somewhat impatiently, because I would like to stock up on a couple of items if the snow is coming tonight. But I don't want to be sitting in the rain outside waiting for someone else to open the door. Hopefully, it will come sometime before dark.
The first part of March is filled with special days in Kyrgyzstan. There was a celebration of Flag Day earlier this week. I love the Kyrgyz Flag and I am sorry that my jet-lag kept me from knowing about it until it was over.
It was also Ak-Kalpak Day this week. Again, I did not know about it until it was gone.
And today, Saturday, 8 March we celebrate International Women's Day. A wonderful holiday that brings joy to the hearts of flower sellers, perfume dealers, and chocolatiers. Yesterday many people were beginning the celebration buying bouquets and chocolates for the women in their lives. It is a very well observed occasion in Bishkek.
My flight to Bishkek boarded on time. I was lucky enough to be in a row with only one other person who was traveling from Moldova. We talked a little. I read a little more, but mostly I slept the flight away. We arrived in Bishkek at 10 a.m. at Manas International Airport. The process through passport control was easy and all three of my bags arrived with me. I struggled to lift the three 22 kg bags onto a cart, but got it. Then went to go through customs control but an official there waved me through without looking or scanning my bags. One of the bags was destined for my friends mother and one of her employees whom I knew was waiting to pick it up. My young friend Azkarbek had come with his friend Atai to pick me up and bring me to my apartment. I was thrilled to see him and to have a nice ride to the apartment. It was also nice to have the two boys help me with the luggage up the stairs. Azkar also has keys to the apartment and I did not have to fish around to find mine, which my friend Emil had packed in one of the suitcases without realizing it. But we did not need keys because Kanykei, the woman who cleans was waiting for me and trying to straighten up the place. She opened the door when she heard us rattling outside. It was really nice of her to be there to welcome me home.
Four months gone is a long time in Bishkek and much has happened. The apartment was repainted and seems nicer somehow. It also is a very cozy personal space for me. A couple of unexplained mysteries popped up as I begin to take stock of things. I had left two walking canes or sticks as I call them in the hall cabinet. They are missing. I had about four stainless steel dinner knives in the silverware jar. They are missing. At first I could not figure out what had happened to all the spices and dried herbs, but eventually managed to locate them. Someone put the chili powder into the refrigerator along with the honey. I have found the powdered garlic, the basil, and bought new peppercorns and dried parsley, known as petrushka here, and am able to cook.
Indeed, just a moment ago I pulled a lovely hunk of roasted beast out of the oven. It will provide a number of small meals for me over the next few days.
 |
| The Roast of Beef and veggies |
The weather has been very nice since I returned with sunny skies and highs in the upper 40's F. I arrived here on the 26th of February. I did suffer a significant amount of jet-lag and for almost a week was still partially on Houston time. That seems to have subsided and I am now sleeping and waking with the rest of Bishkek. Today, the weather has changed to dreary. It is raining and the weather forecasters say that the precipitation will turn to snow tonight and a 4 to 6 inch accumulation is expected. It will be good to see the snow. It helps to cover up what is not very beautiful at this time of year in Bishkek. The flowers have not begun to bloom, the icepack on the sidewalks is melting and little rivers of muddy water are dirtying the cuffs of pants, shoes, and boots.
Several changes while I was away. An institution in Bishkek which for years was a stopping point for expats and travelers has closed. Fatboys on Chuy Prospect is up for rent. I am sorry to see it go, it was a touch point when I first came. The coffee was okay, the food was acceptable, but mostly it was meeting people from many parts who came to Bishkek. The Lonely Planet Guide to Central Asia described Fatboys as "a prime foreigners’ hang-out – especially at breakfast, where you’ll find fresh juices, fruit teas, hash browns, bacon, eggs, yoghurt, muesli and pancakes. It’s got a central location and in summer the sidewalk tables make for great alfresco dining." Perhaps someone will resurrect the space soon and the al fresco dining will return.
The biggest changes seem to be happening in the construction industry and in the automotive realm.
Four months ago there was a report that there were about 600 thousand cars registered in Bishkek. That is a lot of cars on the streets of what is not a very large city. There was a lot of traffic and some places were predictable traffic jams and gridlocks. But since my return, I think the number of cars has increased significantly. What used to be a 10 minute taxi trip across town now takes about 20 to 30 minutes because of the increased traffic. I asked one local if it was just my imagination. His reply was very interesting. He said many people rushed to buy automobiles when there was talk of Kyrgyzstan joining a Russian sponsored Customs Union because prices would go up.
The other noticeable growth industry is construction. Throughout the city new high-rise buildings for offices, shops, and luxury apartments are under construction. Much of the older buildings from the Soviet period are being torn down to make way for these new buildings. That construction process also is creating delays along major thoroughfares and the big trucks carrying concrete and cranes are not helping the pothole problem.
My biggest adjustment has come at the apartment because of the new security electronic door. It uses a special little device to open the door and, of course, I don't have one. I would just wait outside sitting on the benches I put in 3 years ago until someone came out or went in to get to the apartment. The installers came the other day and put in the intercom instrument for me to be able to admit guests, but they did not have one of the key devices for me. Finally, I got help from a friend to find out where I had to go to get a device. I went yesterday. And they are supposed to deliver it to me today. I am waiting somewhat impatiently, because I would like to stock up on a couple of items if the snow is coming tonight. But I don't want to be sitting in the rain outside waiting for someone else to open the door. Hopefully, it will come sometime before dark.
The first part of March is filled with special days in Kyrgyzstan. There was a celebration of Flag Day earlier this week. I love the Kyrgyz Flag and I am sorry that my jet-lag kept me from knowing about it until it was over.
 |
| Kyrgyz Republic Flag |
It was also Ak-Kalpak Day this week. Again, I did not know about it until it was gone.
 |
| Me in my Ak-Kalpak |
And today, Saturday, 8 March we celebrate International Women's Day. A wonderful holiday that brings joy to the hearts of flower sellers, perfume dealers, and chocolatiers. Yesterday many people were beginning the celebration buying bouquets and chocolates for the women in their lives. It is a very well observed occasion in Bishkek.
Welcome back, and enjoy the next few days of snow! People keep telling me this will likely be one of the last falls for the winter before it starts to warm up for good.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Stephen. I have decided to try to make this a part of every weeks work for me. I appreciate your comments.
DeleteWelcome back, and hope to meet you soon. FORUM meets March, 22 10 am at Bayalinov library. If you have time you are welcome to join. We will aslo celebrate Nooruz that day.
ReplyDelete