Bishkek Journal-Cal Preece Weekending 3-22-12

Friday, March 16, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Another above 50 degrees F day in Bishkek. At 10:30 am I realized that I had not managed to get away from my computer. I began about 7:30 am. I made some breakfast, an egg, rye toast, a little salami. I took a walk, even though it is a bit damp outside. But there has been no snow, and therefore no new ice for a few days. I took a long walk today down to the TZUM, back by the Komfort Store. Stopped for some coffee at Coffee on Toktogula and Shopokov. Picked up a copy of the Times of Central Asia. Looked through the Moskova Mini-Bazaar, picked up some peppers and spinach. Then back to the apartment to do some reading and writing. Rain began just after I arrived and lasted all night.

Saturday, March 17, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan An amazing effect of raindrops hanging on the tree limbs outside the kitchen window this morning as bright sun streams over Bishkek.

It's been raining since late yesterday evening. I managed a long walk yesterday and got home just before the rains began to fall. Looking forward to breakfast at FatBoys with the English speakers at 10 am. Always fun to find out who comes. Right now, time for more coffee. There is some possibility of clearing skies in the East as I can see a break in the overcast.

A surprisingly beautiful day in Bishkek. Got the laundry done and hung outside to dry before breakfast. A great breakfast group this morning including a couple of people who are here doing a feasibility study for the production of a tele-novella in Kyrgyz. Fascinating discussions. Then a walk back to the apartment with a stop by the cookie store to pickup the oatmeal-raisin and chocolate biscotti from Papa's Bakery. Then a little nap. Now watching BBC news after a bowl of the 2 bean chili. I have a great life.

Sunday, March 18, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan What was predicted as rain has now turned to snow outside my window. Current temperature is 0 degrees C and it appears we will have two more days of snow before the 21st, when we will celebrate the arrival of Spring. The snow was truly significant. It began as small little flakes but later the flakes were the size of the 3 som coin. Headed out in damp conditions to the ballet. The snow had turned to rain when I entered the Opera House.

Had a great time at the ballet tonight. Principal dancers were terrific dancing in Giselle. Exited to snow falling in a serious way. Nice Indian meal with Lars Wettestad and Vibeke Oestreich Nielsen at Host Restaurant just across the street from the Hyatt. As I came home it was beginning to snow around my apartment again.

Monday, March 19, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan New Out the Kitchen Window photo shows the effects of last nights snow.

Waiting this morning for the FastNet technician to get the new wireless router working so I can more effectively use my Kindle and iPad, and be able to untether the computer.

Marat and I went in the afternoon to find some new shoes for him as an early birthday present. We went first to Vefa Center, but the prices there were more than he could be comfortable with. I suggested that we head out to Ortosay Bazaar, where the quality of goods is pretty good and prices are usually fair. But as we were heading out, I thought it would be good to pickup some cash from the KazKommerz ATM in the Beta Store. That's when I learned that the store was closed. A big banner on the front door said try Store 1 or 2, which are not quite as convenient to me. I am always disappointed when a favorite shopping spot shuts its doors. There is a sinking feeling as I realize I am going to have to make adjustments to my routines. It reminds me, too, that there are parts of me are not as flexible as I try to appear.

We headed to Ortosay Bazaar, located in the Southeast area. Found a parking space easily. Located the area where men's shoes were being sold and finally found some casual shoes he liked. Left with our purchase and I headed back home. Marat went off to work.

I spent much of the rest of the day editing the stuff in my computer. Deleting old photos, duplicates, fuzzy ones and dropping music I never listen to from iTunes. Today, some of those photo edits are showing up as new posts in Facebook thanks to the auto functions in iPhoto. Amazing. The tech never came.

Dinner was Lemon-Ginger-Cognac Chicken.

I had some chicken thigh pieces in the freezer and defrosted them during the day. A little seasoned flour, salt, black pepper, paprika, in a bag. Chicken shaken to coat. Onions, minced garlic, sliced carrots sauteed in olive oil lightly, chicken added to brown, then water to cover. Added lemon juice, ginger and cognac to flavor the dish, turned down heat to simmer, covered and cooked for about 30 minutes until a thickened sauce appeared and the chicken was tender. I thought it was great.

Tuesday, March 20, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan It is the actual Spring Equinox today and the focus is preparing for the big celebrations tomorrow.One of the national dishes of Kyrgyzstan is served as a ritual meal for Nooruz celebrations. Beshbarmak (бешбармак)

It means “5 fingers”. Indeed in Kyrgyz "беш" means "5" and "бармак", "fingers". It is called that because this plate is traditionally eaten with the hand, only the fingers touching the food.The meat (often sheep) is boiled for hours. When cooked, it will be removed and diced while the noodles are cooking in the broth. Before being served, noodles and the meat are mixed. Beshbarmak often, if not always, comes with a ritual, and «Omen» is said after people are done eating.

"Celebrating Spring"

I went to the Nooruz celebration and food fair at International Ataturk-Alatoo University which is located in Tunguch, on the far eastern edges of Bishkek. I was invited by my young friend Aimeerim Omorova who is studying International Relations. I also called and met my friend Akylbek Ashyrbaev. I met both of them in 2009 as they were preparing to graduate from their secondary schools. Aimeerim is from Osh. During my stay there she helped me by translating during visits to various sites. I met Akylbek at a celebration of the 1st anniversary of a friends wedding. The celebration was held in Aidarken, a village in the south of Kyrgyzstan at the home of his mother and father. It is good to be able to see both of them doing well in university.

The celebration included tables from each of the cultures represented at the university ranging from Kyrgyz, Russian, Turkish, Uzbek, Tajik, Turkmen, and Georgia. The food was great.

I sampled somuluk from Kyrgyz table, a Turkish treat that included a potato salad, a sesame seed red pepper triangle, and a macaroni salad, then to the Uzbek table for a lemon-apple torte that was incredible. I need to find that recipe. During the grazing and contributing to the fund my friend Aimeerim supports, there was also great dancing from the various groups. The kids with backgrounds from the Caucuses were the most amazing dancers.

I put together a little video of the dancing on YouTube.

I rode home on a #7 bus that brought me back to the center of the city. Cost 6 soms. Then walked home up Pravda a few blocks. By the time I got home it was about 6 p.m. And I was really tired. A little television and a visit from Marat to practice his English. He was hungry so he ate the leftover Lemon-Ginger Chicken, then headed off to meet some friends. I was off to bed.

Wednesday, March 21, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan This morning headed out to the celebration of the coming of Spring in Bishkek's Ala-Too Square. The weather was perfect, maybe even too much sunshine. Happy Spring everyone. This celebration of Nooruz is like another New Year. There was a big celebration with dancers, musical performers, the president will speak in the main square. The problem one encounters if you want to take photos is that a phalanx of Militia, Military, and Bishkek police create a security boundary that uses the very broad area of Chuy Prospect between Ala-Too Square and the State Historical museum. It is a distance of about 100 meters, and the crowding issue also has to be dealt with. One begins to see why agora phobia can develop when people are pressing against you en masse.

I took pictures on the fringes and focused on the crowds rather than performers. After about an hour when the big show had not yet begun, I decided to grab breakfast at Vis-a-Vis Cafe. While there, Vibekke and Lars called and came. Then we ventured out to see if we could get closer. We did manage to get on the Museum side of the street.

We walked around, went behind the museum to the area in front of The American University of Central Asia where some traditional Kyrgyz sports activities were taking place. There was arm wrestling, wrestling, free weight lifting, and a game played with sheep ones and knuckles where you try to knock the small bones out of the circle with the big bone.

Then we walked over toward Panifilov Park where food sellers were preparing classic Central Asian dishes and some clever snacks. Lars and Vibekke opted for the sausage in pastry. Then into the park to see the rides in operation. After that we went for some coffee at the Coffee location on Togoluk Moldo. While there I got a call from the technician from FastNet who was ready to come to connect the new wireless router I bought recently. I agreed to be home by 3 p.m. Finished the cappuccino with chocolate. Caught a taxi and arrived home at 5 of three. The tech came at 3:30 and it took him about 15 minutes to get the system working. Now the iPod and the Kindle work seamlessly when connected. Life's little technological blessings make me so happy.

Really tired today after a great day celebrating the vernal equinox under the banner of Nooruz.
Thursday, March 22, 2012-Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan A nice walk today in my shirtsleeves and a fleece vest. The weather is absolutely beautiful. I stopped by to pay my rent for February to my landlord. I was actually a little late with it. I normally try to do it around the middle of the month. But it was okay. Then I walked North down Sovietska to see what the street vendors were selling.

Then East on Moskova to the Moskova Bazaar where I gan often find nicer fresh vegetable. Found some beautiful cherry tomatoes, spring onions, saw a great orange squash, and bought some leeks so I can make a potato-leek soup this weekend. Was disappointed that there was no celery or spinach. But was told I should find some on Saturday. Across the street is the Halal Meat Market where I picked up a salami. Then walked a block east to Pravda and then south to my apartment with a stop at the Chicken Rotisserie to get some food for dinner. Lunch was the tomatoes, spring onions, salami and some black olives. The olive supply has become seriously depleted. There are no olive bars in the supermarkets and finding quality olives has now gotten harder with the closing of the Vefa Center branch of the Beta Store.